Yesterday afternoon we visited the nearby town of San Gimignano, a midevial village that has been preserved as it was around the 12th century. We were told that when the black plague ran through the countryside, the village was decimated and deserted, which in part was responsible for it being left out of the progress of arts and culture, which actually saved it from change.
We toured the duomo (cathedral), and saw the most overwhelming interior of original frescoes and architecture... the artwork and the sheer splendor and quantity of work is stunning. No photos are allowed, but you can probably look it up on the internet to get an idea of what we viewed. There are a few frescoes in outer courtyards that somehow have endured for several hundred years without completely fading out. Perhaps some of them have been restored a few times. I have a photo to include of a plaza area that has the original 11th century stonework, frescoes and a water well, all still intact. You can envision the knights and peasants passing through.
There are towers througout the town that are several stories high.... In the 1300's, wealthy families wanted to express their prosperity, and since they could not build "out" into the town space, they built "up"! The wealthier the family, the taller the tower. I cannot imagine what it would have been like to climb all those steep and narrow staircases in rennaisance clothing. Each level was basically one room. We went up to the top of the tallest, the Great Tower, and had breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. What struck me most was the lack of highways and cities... I can't think of anywhere in the US that you could see so far without seeing a four-lane highway somewhere nearby. Except perhaps for Mt. Rainier or other mountain tops.
We had the most drop-dead wonderful gelllato in a little shop... Deep chocolate, coconut, and raspberry with rosemary. Oh my gosh! They also had gorgonzola, nut flavors, and melon flavors...all kinds of stuff.
Today in the studio we are winding down our "making" phase and everything has to be dried and ready to bisque by Saturday. I have made several small teapots and olive oil cruets, hoping to bring them home. I purchased several bottles of local award-winning olive oil today. Bob took a ride to the neaby market about an hour ago and is picking up some breads, cheeses, fruits and such for next week's breakfast and snacks.
We have had the most wonderful lunches every day from the studio's resident chef. Today was a tiny type of gnocchi tossed in freshly made basil pesto with pine nuts; a roll of roasted turkey breast stuffed with zucchinni, egg, prosciutto, and cheeses; fresh green beans roasted with potatoes and carrots; and for desert an apple tort in lemon curd with phyllo crust. And of course all the local wine, red and white, that you want. And espresso to finish.
Ahh.... it is a difficult working vacation, but we are hanging in there. :)
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